Historiography of Indonesian Culinary: Tracing Trails and National Identity Through the History of Food

Yulia Rohmawati

doi:10.22437/js.v4i2.37758

Authors

Yulia Rohmawati Universitas Airlangga

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.22437/js.v4i2.37758

Keywords:

culinary, food, historiography, identity, indonesia

Abstract

Indonesia's cultural heritage, especially its food traditions, needs more thorough documentation, making it hard to learn about the culture and national identity through cuisine. This often leads to cuisine being seen as just food, ignoring its deeper cultural and philosophical meanings. This study uses a historical approach to address this gap in understanding Indonesian culinary history. Various sources like photos, videos, documents, newspapers, and magazines are used as primary sources in this research. The research finds many historical cookbooks from colonial times to after Indonesia gained independence, each with unique features. These cookbooks reflect the cultural context of their time. Recognizing cuisine as a dynamic part of national identity, evolving over time and across regions, is crucial in establishing a national cuisine. This requires a deep dive into culinary history and an understanding of the role of Indonesian culinary historiography in shaping the nation's food culture.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Anggraeni, Pipit, 'Menu Populer Hindia Belanda (1901-1942): Kajian Pengaruh Budaya Eropa Terhadap Kuliner Indonesia', Jurnal Sejarah Dan Budaya, 9.1 (2015), 90–94

Arsana, Lother, The Food Of Indonesia: Authentic Recipes trom the Spice Islands. (Singapore: Periplus Editions Ltd, 1996)

Bower, Anne L, ‘Our Sisters Recipes: Exploring Community in a Community Cookbook’, Journal of Popular Culture, 31.3 (1997), 14

Becut, Anda Georgiana, and Kàtia Lurbe i Puerto, ‘Introduction. Food History and Identity: Food and Eating Practices as Elements of Cultural Heritage, Identity and Social Creativity', International Review of Social Research, 7.1 (2017), 1–4 <https://doi.org/10.1515/irsr-2017-0001>

Bela, Viki Restina, 'Pengaruh Budaya Mooi Indië Dan Rijsttafel Pada Desain Sampul Buku Resep Masakan', 1.1 (2021), 1–9

Bessiere, Jachinte, 'Local Development and Heritage: Traditional Food and Cuisine as Tourist Attractions in Rural Areas', Eur Soc Rural Sociol, 38.1 (1998), 21–34

Black, Shameem, ‘Recipes for Cosmopolitanism’, Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies, 31.

Brierly, J. H, Spices: The Story of Indonesia's Spice Trade. (Oxford UP, 1994)

Brulotte, Ronda L., and Di Givione, Michael A., Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage (Burlington: Ashgate, 2014)

Bardenstein, Carol, ‘Transmissions Interrupted: Reconfiguring Food, Memory, and Gender in the Cookbook’, Memoirs of Middle Eastern Exiles, 28.1 (2002), 353–387

Civitello, Linda, Cuisine and Culture: A History of Food and People. (New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2008)

Cornelia. Kokki Bitja, Kitab Masak-Masakan India yang Bahroe dan Sempurna, (Batavia: Lange & Co, 1857)

Cusack, Igor, ‘African Cuisines: Recipes for Nation-Building?’, Journal of African Cultural Studies, 13.2 (2000), 208

Donkin, R. A., Between East and West: The Moluccas and the Traffic in Spices Up to the Arrival of Europeans. (American Philosophical Society, 2003)

Goody, Jack, Cooking, Cuisine and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology, (Cambridge University Press, 1982)

Goodman, Michael and others, Geographies of Food: An Introduction (London: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2021)

Gutomo, Arya, ‘Peranakan Chinese Culinary Culture in the City of Surakarta at the Beginning of the 20th Century’, Siginjai: Jurnal Sejarah, 3(2), 119-132

Handoyo, Chrisfella Cokro, and others, ‘Klappertaart: an Indonesian–Dutch influenced traditional food’, Journal of Ethnic Foods, 5.2 (2018), 147-152

Hardjohutomo, Harsono, Buku Masakan Indonesia Mustika Rasa: Resep-Resep Masakan Indonesia Dari Sabang Sampai Merauke (Jakarta: Departemen Pertanian Republik Indonesia, 1967)

Keay, J., The Spice Route: A History. (University of California Press, 2005)

Kuntowijoyo, Pengantar Ilmu Sejarah (Yogyakarta: Bentang Pustaka, 1995)

Meijden, Catenius JM J. Oost-Indisch Kookboek or New Complete East Indies Cookbook, (Semarang: GCT van DORP & Co., 1902)

Miller, J., A. Kostogriz, dan M. Gearon, Culturally and Linguistically Diverse Classroom (Toronto: Multilingual Matters, 2009)

Nitisuari, N, P Wardono, Open Access, Environmental Science, Serli Wijaya, Yusuf Budi, and others, ‘Museum Sejarah Kuliner Tradisional Indonesia’, Jurnal Tingkat Sarjana Bidang Senirupa Dan Desain, 3.1 (2013), 2–7 <https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/485/1/012008>

Nugroho, Andri Setyo, and Dita Reista Nurfaizah, 'kehidupan Pembantu Rumah Tangga di Hindia Belanda pada Pertengahan Abad ke-19 sampai Abad ke-20', Mukadimah: Jurnal Pendidikan, Sejarah, Dan Ilmu-Ilmu Sosial, 4.2 (2020), 136–45 <https://doi.org/<https://doi.org/10.30743/mkd.v4i2.2617>>

Partarakis, Nikolaos and others, ‘Representation and Presentation of Culinary Tradition as Cultural Heritage', Heritage, 4 (2021), 612–640

Protschky, Susie, ‘The Colonial Table: Food, Culture and Dutch Identity in Colonial Indonesia’, Australian Journal of Politics & History, 54 (2008), 346 - 357

Rahman, Fadly, Jejak Rasa Nusantara: Sejarah Makanan Indonesia (Jakarta: Gramedia Pustaka Utama, 2016)

Rahman, Fadly, Rijsttafel: Budaya Kuliner Di Indonesia Masa Kolonial 1870-1942 (Jakarta: Gramedia Pustaka Utama, 2011)

Santoso, Listiyono, and others, Heritage and Innovation Through the Lens of Local Wisdom', Asian Journal of Dairy and Food Research, (2024)

Situngkir, Hokki., Maulana, A., and Dahlan, M., ‘A Portrait of Diversity In Indonesian Traditional Cuisine’. Munich Personal RePEc Archive, (2015), 1-11

Wijaya, I. Z. and Rahma, A, ‘Rijsttafel di Batavia: Kelas Sosial dan Pengaruh Eropa di Meja Makan pada Awal Abad ke-20’, Socio Historica, 1.1 (2022)

William Redfern, “Sukarno's Guided Democracy and the Takeovers of Foreign Companies in Indonesia in the 1960s Acknowledgements”, Disertation, The University of Michigan, 2010

_____. Oost-Indisch Kookboek, (Semarang: GCT. van DORP 1866)